New Zealand shocks the world!

How about our boys humbling Italy Sunday at the World Cup in South Africa? They're calling it the biggest shock so far at the 2010 World Cup (and it's definitely NZ's best soccer result ever). Ranked 78th in the world, the New Zealand All Whites managed to hold Italy, the defending world champs! And we're happy to take the draw (1-1) in spite of the bad ref call that allowed Italy's penalty kick goal (whereas our goal was perfect). 

This is only NZ's second World Cup ever for soccer (we're a rugby nation) and there's only 25 professional players in the whole country. (Some of our boys are bankers by day, not making the $100,000 per week soccer salary the Italians manage, for example.) Well, the All Whites sure stole the headlines from the All Blacks today! The match was actually at 2-4am NZ time, so I set the alarm just in case we had an historic moment -- and we did! (nevermind I about knocked myself out in the dark, bashing my head on a wall corner on my way to the living room -- I bounced away and did another header on the opposite wall -- that knocked me flat!) Definitely hard to get back to sleep after that match . . . and the revelling continued all morning -- on the news, at work, on the streets. Fun day to be in New Zealand!

Sorry if you're not a soccer fan, but this is big! I suppose I should report other news, like it was over 60 today, on WINTER solstice (perhaps warmer than Homer's summer solstice, we'll see when they hit June 21st -- our day is almost over). I was outside on my lunch break, making a Father's Day call to my grandpa, sitting in the sun, gazing out at the harbor, jacket-less -- that's a new one for winter solstice.

Fantastic tapa cloth exhibit opened at Te Papa this week: PaperSkin. I participated in the blessing (staff only, before public opening of all exhibits) and went in for a curator talk on Samoan siapo -- interesting since we always had them hanging in our home growing up from my dad's peace corps days in Samoa. One fijian piece is almost 23 meters long and it's the first time it has been displayed since it's creation. The musical soundscape developed for the exhibit is pretty cool too. Other than that, I went planting native cabbage trees with a conservation group last weekend -- got to do some wetland planting too. I don't know how those little guys don't just float away . . .

Well, that's about it for the last couple weeks other than the highs and lows of being away from home . . . enjoyed a great skype chat with my Homer marimba band, Tamba Hadzi, after their performance at the Kenai River Festival. I'll spare them by not posting the snapshot I took! Here's a better one from last year's Seward Music Fest:

 

Miss you girls!

Matariki - Happy New Year!

 

The Māori new year began this morning with my 4am alarm to get me to the 5am train for the 5:45 beginning of festivities at Te Papa. A Matariki ceremony, staff breakfast and performances were all part of the 3-hour PARTY. I feel pretty honored to have been part of this this staff-only event . . . and what a brilliant morning it was!
  
Matariki is the name for the Pleiades star cluster (aka Seven Sisters), that signifies the Māori New Year, June 10 (and other seasonal celebrations worldwide). Coincidentally, the name is Subaru in Japanese and it's part of the constellation Taurus, so I'm clearly connected by my only two owned vehicles in life. Now you see why we started at 6am -- gotta see the stars for this one! 

The ceremony began with taonga pūoro (traditional instruments) and a procession around the Marae to bless the seven taonga (treasures) on display from collections. We then processed outside to the Pūwhara deck area where again pūoro (music: instruments & voice) introduced the karanga (call) and karakia (prayers). It was sure windy, but no rain and plenty of stars peeking through the clouds. Hearing the chants welcoming Matariki from the roof of Te Papa with a huge group of staff in the dark was pretty awesome. 

I work with Tracy (#2), Kylie (#4) and Jade (#5 from the left)

Kylie is my supervisor and Tracy is the boss - clearly here!

Sufficiently frozen (well, not the Alaskan) and wind-blown (Alaskan included), we processed back inside and were served an excellent breakfast. The acting CEO/Kaihautū (Māori leader) served us personally as part of the wait staff. A curator spoke about the seven taonga and then a wild party of staff performances (mostly karaoke) was kicked off and didn't end until 9am. From the new moon, to full sunshine illuminating a singer just as he broke into his grand finale of My Way, to a misty rain moving on to a glorious day, it was a New Year celebration full of signs and Haumanu (revival). Wish you could've been there!

 

Our staff waiata (singing group) closed the ceremony with Te Hokinga Mai, a popular song written to welcome the taonga home in 1986 after the Te Māori exhibition at the Met. Then, it was performed by the Pakipaki elementary school children (video below) -- we did much of the same choreography this morning. Matariki festivities continue until June 27 and we'll sing tomorrow at the powhiri (welcome) ceremony for the Kaumātua Kapa Haka (elders' performance).

Enjoy and Happy New Year!

Te Hokinga Mai - by Te Taite Cooper and Father Mariu

busking bagpipers and other distractions

I love this place. Though I frequently see a piper busking at the outdoor markets, yesterday one greeted the 5pm rush front & center at the entrance to Wellington station. Since I had a little extra time I got out the ghillies and did a highland gigue (okay, in my head), but it does put a nice cap on your day to be serenaded past Platform 9 3/4 and even find a seat on the Paraparaumu express. So yes, I did work on Memorial Day, but we get Queen's Birthday off next Monday, so there. Between pipers, platform 9 3/4 and royal holidays, it's no secret New Zealand's under the Crown. Oh, you can add castles to that list...

Castle Point day-trip wraps up today's blog (scroll down)

Things are going swimmingly in the new home. Fun first week of PT temp work at the Royal New Zealand College of General Practitioners (I coordinate the South Island program for 1st-year resident doctors). Super nice staff and it brings home the bacon while I have fun at Te Papa the rest of the time. Here's me and my new Te Papa staff badge!

Yes, I'm still on my Te Papa dream boat. After a bit of time on the job, I'm realizing that in fact I really like being a volunteer. It takes the pressure off when I want to attend meetings and activities that are not closely related to my project, but quite valuable to me personally and my New Zealand experience. Here's a smattering of my distractions at my personal "school of Te Papa":

• staff Waiata every Thursday afternoon on the Marae (meeting place) where a new Maori song and dance is taught every week
• Maori language classes -- one hour/week "term" class or just hour shots of a topic: pronunciation, using Te Reo in business correspondence, and others . . .
• public events like the upcoming Matariki festival (Maori new year) -- including staff only breakfast and performances at 6am on the 10th!
• back-of-house tours, library access (and of course, my own swipe key + badge)
• but most of all, getting to work with the National Services Te Paerangi staff -- they do an amazing amount for the museum community of NZ and iwi. Not only do they have forward-looking programmes like an alternative to accreditation and models for a bicultural workplace, but just a really collegial atmosphere where I feel accepted and valued for my contribution (iwi taonga database project, if you missed that post)

Getting to know the whole institution is very valuable to me, especially working with a big multicultural staff. I'm taking notes for the potential Peace Corps Country Director position (next January) when I would manage a staff of country nationals as well as a few Americans. Te Papa does a lot right. And if the next thing is back in Alaska museums, I've got a ton of ideas to share! 

So, besides distractions at work, I have been out playing lately too. Liew, my Malaysian friend you'll remember from South Island journeys, stopped by last week to say goodbye before heading home (she travelled NZ for 3 months). We took a day trip out to Castle Point in the Waiararapa. Zigzagged across the Rimutaka Range on Route 2 northeast of Wellington and drove through the Wairarapa -- sheep and wine country. 

look closely (click) -- it's all sheep!

On our way out we sampled and drooled over Schoc Chocolate's spicey wonders (I came home with a bar of lime-chili chocolate) and on the way back, made a stop at the Martinborough wine centre, home of New Zealand's finest pinot noirs (got the necessary bottle to go with the chocolate). 

Castlepoint is a long fossil-encrusted limestone reef with 162m high castle rock at one end and a lighthouse at the other. Liew and I braved the cliffs and were almost punished on our alternate route back with a push off the edge from the gusts. 

Having survived the day, we celebrated our existence and had a farewell dinner at a funky lounge in Carterton on the way home and Liew took off the next day. She's been a fun travel bud and I love it that I've carried a few friends with me to different places (Liew, Alex, Cat, Leeann). Speaking of those harbour-dwellers, Cat picked us up for a jaunt to the market saturday + a new one with heaps of samples! She brought a british lady who'd washed up in Mana Harbour, sailing around the world for eight years (including 3 stops in Sitka). She was just waiting for a good northerly to take her to Hawaii. Good company on a Saturday morning! Well, we've come full british circle now, so I'll quit.

working on being under-qualified

sunny day on Wellington Harbour with Mt Vic

(this is winter in New Zealand, kids!)

MY EMPLOYMENT SAGA 

(or TIPS ON JOB HAPPINESS FOR YOUR WORK-HOLIDAY):

1. Don't be afraid to rely on your lips

Well, I think my friend Jeanne put it best (Alaska's most awesome horn player):

“Who’d of thunk it?   Haven’t we all been told that you better get a 'real' degree so you can pay the bills… Here is Heather- who can’t get a job because of her 'real education' and is having to rely on PLAYING HER HORN!!!  WOW!  That is the best story I have heard all year!” 

Although I'm proud my first NZ paid job offer was indeed a pit orchestra gig for principal horn, I'm pleased to report I am now officially EMPLOYED with a steady paycheck and won't have to rely on my lips. (I let the pit gig go since performances are during my sister's visit, but I am joining a community orchestra and not giving up on a few more auditions -- horn players are in short supply here!) 

2. Try at least five temp agencies 

After relentless storming of temp agencies I finally convinced them I'm not overqualified. (A girl's gotta eat--geez!) I'd been having trouble finding some mindless admin position to support the extra (volunteer) time I'm putting in at Te Papa, but no one wanted me -- claiming I'd be too bored, would move on, etc. Well, I do understand the recruitment dilemma, but shouldn't I decide what I can tolerate? After all, I came here for a little less responsibility. I thought about removing all reference of CEO and lawyer from my resume and just citing my thrilling MS Office capabilities, but I didn't have to go that far. Instead, I just caused a scene in the temp agency office. Started taking all their little tests: typing, Word, Excel, data entry, on and on . . . and as my scores started rolling in (I'm told later) the office folks gathered 'round, in awe of my 100% in Word (they'd never seen it before). I had two job offers by the end of the day. Temping will be great -- accept/reject what you want, plan around your vacations (sister visits), and leave it at the end of the day. Love it. (and just ask my friend Char, sometimes it will lead to a fat Princeton job that doubles your salary - go Char!) 

3. Compensation is subjective: Seek out something stimulating! 

Te Papa from the air . . .

So, I've got a part-time temp job and the other part-time I spend at Te Papa doing a project for the National Services department. THAT is fantastic! I work with a great (though small) team, which is essentially providing services to NZ museums and iwi (Maori tribes) equivalent to the services of AAM, IMLS and the Smithsonian rolled into one. Though my project focuses on models and resources for creating taonga databases (taonga = treasure or object) R&D, case studies, and organizing a forum for iwi to share info, I'm also dipping into other projects, as appropriate. There's some great work going on here with innovative museum standards to apply nationally that build on Te Papa's bi-cultural approach to museum management. Huge parallels to Alaska and serving small and/or isolated museums and the problem of national standards (in US) not catching up with needs of the field. We could learn a lot from Te Papa. The team's on the lookout for short-term paid gigs for me, as well as travel opportunities, and I may even get to present my project findings on the The Marae at Te Papa before I go! (image below is of youth refugees from Myanmar performing on The Marae at opening of The Mixing Room exhibit on NZ's refugees)

So that's the scoop on New Zealand jobs -- my other news is that I will be returning in early October for my final interview with the big cheez in DC for a Peace Corps Country Director job (in some yet-unnamed country -Mongolia?). That would start in January 2011, though I'm still on the watch for tempting Alaska jobs available in the fall/winter. Regardless, I'll be back in Homer for a month to start (Oct 24-Nov 24) . . . Stay tuned!

tongariro crossing

Back from the 20K Tongariro Alpine Crossing (above is Mt Ngauruhoe, or Mt Doom for you LOTR fans). Kiwi friend Cat and I drove up to National Park and met her sister Sunni and Sunni's boyfriend Matt, both from Auckland. (Tongariro NP is about mid-way between Auckland & Wellington.) Stayed at a backpackers for 2 nights and did the crossing on Saturday. Excellent weather for a hike -- cool and partly cloudy (surely falling under the common NZ weather term "fine"). But the top was WINDY AS! ("as what," you ask? well, that is the eternal question with this kiwi slang - tell me when you figure it out)

The famed lunar landscape delivered + great volcanic features: steaming vents, colorful lava flows, and pools smelling of sulphur. (Check out my Tongariro photo album for more shots.) The old knee injury survived the straight up/straight down trail, although she's usually not keen on more than 10 miles/day (this was 12), especially with extended downhill. Here's the gang at our first snack stop below the 2287m peak of Mt Ngauruhoe. Clearly the altitude is affecting us!

Sunni, Matt, Cat

We stopped by Whanganui Bay, north of the park, on Sunday and marveled at skipping pumice stones into the lake and watching them float. Nasty road down to this Maori marae -- usually off limits, but they allow climbers/campers and Cat had been several times before. Nice walk before spending the rest of the day in the car back to Wellington. Although we did make a quick stop at tree trunk gorge (below).

Home Sunday night to my empty house in Camborne -- Wendy (house owner) left for Europe Saturday. My french friend Alex was in Wellington this week taking an english exam before heading off to South America next week, so we hung out a couple days -- climbing Mt Victoria and spending an afternoon on the beaches near my place. We had to skip the tatoo museum because the weather has been too perfect and sunny to be inside -- all the locals say it's unusual for fall. 

Last night we capped off the day with Quiz Night at the local brew pub. Cat met us for a drink, but left after round 3 (quiz round 3, not drink round 3). Alex and I, however, persevered and managed to finish all 8 rounds -- in second to last place! (hey, it's tough when you're not a kiwi) Little did we know, 2nd to last carries a cash prize!!! Here we are with our $35 voucher, which of course enabled us to have another beer!

anniversary

Just reflecting on a fantastic day and noted that I've just hit 6 months from leaving the Pratt (Nov.6th). Time to get a job?? Well perhaps that brought on today's good museum karma. After a bit of work trying to find the right people at Te Papa I can report success! As the national museum, they have a national services department that lends expertise to small museums and iwi (Maori tribes) around the country. I'll be doing a bit of research for them, interviews, grant program assessment and likely some workshops and lectures -- involving a little travel around the country with their iwi development staff. I'll know a bit more next week when they define my role, but I'll start the week of the 17th. 

I do still need to find some other paid part-time work, but this project is really fantastic, and not something that would've come up in a job search, certainly. I'm thrilled that they're tailoring a project for me -- after applying for all four positions available in the last month, it's become clear that the more likely work I would find isn't going to be the most stimulating, so this is really the best possible news. I'm still a little shocked that my coffee date this morning produced such a result! The contact started from me joining Te Papa's National Services list-serve and noticing that Elaine Gurian had recently spoken at the museum. Since we brought Elaine to Homer for the 2007 conference of Museums Alaska, it prompted me to write an email (attaching my CV) and the rest is history. 

I also had a nice meeting today with several staff of the Pataka Museum in my suburb, Porirua, and it looks like there may be an education project I can help with there in a part-time capacity. They are a close-knit staff and it seems to be a fun place to work -- very busy community center with good layout of museum, library and central cafe and gathering space.  2 main galleries with 16 changing exhibits per year EACH!

On the music front, I found a french horn to borrow today and will start with the Tawa Orchestra May 24. Also learned of another St Olaf connection at choir rehearsal last night: Peter Godfrey (NZ's choral legend) founded our Kapiti Chamber Choir, and apparently Anton Armstrong (my St Olaf Choir conductor for those of you not from my Ole past) was the first Peter Godfrey Visiting Professor of Choral Music at the University of Auckland in 2003. Who knew? 

Off to do the Tongariro crossing this weekend (aka Mt Doom, LOTR fans) with my friend from the farm (Cat and her sister). Kiwis are starting to call this winter, but it feels like a good alaskan summer to me! I suppose I can use it as an excuse to indulge in some new NZ favorites: flat whites and my heated mattress pad . . .

Sorry I didn't take pix of my climb up Mt Vic(toria) yesterday!

week one in welly

Settling into my neighborhood of Camborne, north of Wellington, this week (see map to right -- it's part of Porirua city). Above are the boat houses along Camborne Walkway, the path I take from the Mana train station to my house. I'll need to create an album devoted to these quirky dwellings (probably baches - weekend cabins). 

The walk to the station is under 15 minutes and the ride into Wellington is 20-25 min. Wellington has under 200,000 people and the area has around 400,000, so it feels like the size of Anchorage - nice, not crowded. It's hard to believe it's not a much larger city for all the arts & cultural events going on. Lots of theatre, film, galleries, museums, and music -- from live indie bands every night to dozens of classical groups. 

I just joined the Kapiti Chamber Choir, which rehearses north of me on the Kapiti Coast. It's an auditioned group and pretty decent -- I'm happy to be singing again! The conductor had actually heard one of my concerts with the St Olaf Choir in Australia in 1997, amazingly! He had high praise for Anton and St Olaf, introducing me to the other choir members as having attended the best university in the united states (hah! well, he did at least qualify that comment to the best place for choral studies). Small world.

My first week has mostly been consumed with job applications. I'm still waiting for word on the four positions I applied for at Te Papa (national museum-see post below), but I'm not holding my breath. They do prefer those with Maori language skills, I hear. So I've also signed up with some temp agencies, both office and legal (and learned I'm a fast typist, who knew?). Wendy, my house-mate until Saturday, has been extremely kind in introducing me to anyone and everyone who might help me out. She's also hooked me up with a cycling neighbor, Ray, and Saturday I joined a group of older gents (60-70 yr-olds) on their weekly ride to Pukerua Bay. Ray warned me "we're all blokes," but I wasn't scared off -- we had a great ride (they are FIT), in full sunshine, and had coffee afterwards at the big garden center (they blamed me for upping the level of conversation). The boys made sure I got a 15-punch coffee card, so I guess I'm in the club! The map below shows our cycle loop, among other sites around my new home. (click link below to enlarge + see captions)

View Porirua in a larger map

The Lighthouse Cinema is a local favorite in Pauatahanui (marked above). I saw a kiwi film there Friday night -- great place with love seats, yummy cafe (you can bring your wine in the theatre with you), and trails through the wetland refuge out back.

Thursday I have a meeting with three staff at the Pataka Museum, the local museum in Porirua. The director has several Haida friends and is interested in our museum work in Alaska. He's hooking me up with the woman in charge of hiring temporary positions, so that may be an option too. For now, I've contacted most of the museums I'm interested in, asking about volunteer opportunities -- that's always a good way to get a foot in! And it may actually end up being more appropriate for the short time I'm here. I'd be happy with any temp work and getting a museum fix on the side . . . we'll see how it all works out!